For the most haunted Halloween décor, use our free crochet spider web pattern to make your own spooky spider webs. They’re perfect accents for your mantel or the corners of rooms, and they can cover just about anything for an eery atmosphere. For even more decoration options, we also provide a pattern for a half-web.
Crocheted spider webs bring a touch of handmade beauty to your otherwise otherworldly vibes. The best part is that you can play with different yarn colors and weights. A lighter weight or crochet thread is great for lacier webs. A thicker yarn will yield chunkier, bolder webs for exterior decorations that will impress your neighbors and trick-or-treaters. This easy crochet spider web pattern also gives you room to experiment with your own design by playing with stitches and numbers of chains.
Keep in mind: this project really comes to life when you block your finished web and/or put tension on the corners. Have fun stretching it across book cases and windows and get super creative with placement.
Finished Spider Web Size
Approximately 10 inches x 10 inches after blocking. The size of your web will depend a lot on the yarn and hook you choose.
Materials
- Yarn and crochet hook – Choose any yarn you like and the crochet hook that works with that yarn. Check the ball band on your yarn for hook recommendations. The following instructional photos use a wool-blend sock weight yarn (Kroy Socks by Patons) and an F5/3.75mm hook.
- Scissors
- Yarn/tapestry needle
- Optional but highly recommended: blocking mats and T-pins (1 mat + 8 pins per web) to put tension on your work. You can check your progress and then block your project when you’re finished. I used a spray bottle but you can also wet your project in the sink.
Abbreviations in U.S. Terms
Dc: double crochet
Ch(s): chain(s)
Rnd(s): round(s)
Tr: treble crochet
YO: yarn over
[ ]: repeat what’s inside the brackets the number of times indicated
Notes (read before starting your spider web)
- You should be familiar with working a variety of crochet stitches, e.g. double crochet and treble crochet.
- You can change the size of your web by stopping after any round you like. You can also try growing your web further, making sure to increase the number of chains between each tall stitch. You don’t have to keep growing the height of the stitch. This is up to you.
- As mentioned above, pinning your web out on a blocking mat can give you a better idea of the shape of your web if you plan to hang it. Wet blocking, spray blocking, or steam blocking your completed web will give your stitches and chains a more polished and less lumpy look.
- If you feel that the tops of your stitches look too holey from round to round, consider inserting your hook deeper into the stitch from the round/row below. For instance, rather than inserting my hook into the top 2 loops from the stitch below, I find 3 loops to pick up by going lower and to the left of the stitch. Don’t work too deeply into the stitch or you’ll affect the height of the stitches quite a bit.
- As you work taller stitches between chains, you will probably find that the loop on your hook will want to spin around. Try using one finger to hold down the active loop on your hook while you use another finger to keep the YO’s in place as you make them. For instance, I normally only use my index finger to stabilize loops on my hook. But for this project, I use my middle finger to help out.
Special Stitches
- You’ll see some non-standard naming system for stitches, because we’re going to use VERY tall stitches.
- For instance, a double crochet would be a 1-YO stitch, because you YO 1 time then insert your hook into the desired stitch, YO and pull through 1 loop, YO and pull through the 1st 2 loops on your hook, then YO and pull through the final 2 loops on your hook.
- A treble crochet would be a 2-YO stitch, because you YO 2 times before inserting your hook into the desired stitch, YO and pull through 1 loop, [YO and pull through the 1st 2 loops on your hook] repeating the last step between the [ ] until only 1 loop remains on your hook.
- To skip ahead a few stitches, a 5-YO stitch will be: YO 5 times, insert your hook into the desired stitch, YO and pull through 1 loop, [YO and pull through the 1st 2 loops on your hook] repeating the last step between the [ ] until only 1 loop remains on your hook.
- You can easily crochet taller and taller stitches by adding more YO’s when you start a stitch.
Crochet Spider Web Pattern
Begin with ch 4. Sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), ch 2, [dc into ring, ch 2] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 3.
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), ch 5, [dc into dc from rnd below, ch 5] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 3.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), ch 7, [dc into dc from rnd below, ch 7] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 3.
Rnd 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), ch 11, [tr into dc from rnd below, ch 11] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 4.
Rnd 5: Ch 7 (counts as 1st 4-YO stitch), ch 17, [4-YO stitch into tr from rnd below, ch 17] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 7.
Rnd 6: Ch 9 (counts as 1st 5-YO stitch,) ch 25, [5-YO stitch into 4-YO stitch from rnd below, ch 25] 7 times. Sl st to top of 1st ch 9.
When you’re ready to finish your web, add some loose “strings” to the end of each “spoke” of your spider web. Chain until you have a length you like for anchoring your web somewhere. If you don’t want super long stringy ends, you can still add a short decorative string to each spoke and ch about 10. Break off. Weaving an end through a chain can be tricky, so you can also just clip the end close.
Join yarn at the top of the all the tall stitches and ch the same length as your first string. Clip the ending yarn tails and weave in all the joining ones.
Your web is probably looking crumpled and twisty. Pin the project onto your blocking mat with a good deal of tension on the ends of all 8 “spokes.” Don’t worry about the “strings” as there might not be enough room on your mat. Use a spray bottle to wet the yarn. Let dry completely.
Crochet Spider Web Pattern – Half Web
Begin with ch 4. Sl st to 1st ch go form a ring.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), ch 2, [dc into ring, ch 2] 3 times. Dc into ring.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn. Ch 5, [dc into dc from row below, ch 5] 3 times. Dc into top of turning ch from row below (3rd ch from the bottom).
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn. Ch 7, [dc into dc from row below, ch 7] 3 times. Dc into top of turning ch from row below (3rd ch from the bottom).
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), turn. Ch 11, [tr into dc from row below, ch 11] 3 times. Tr into top of turning ch from row below (3rd ch from the bottom).
Row 5: Ch 7 (counts as 1st 4-YO stitch), turn. Ch 17, [4-YO stitch into tr from row below, ch 17] 3 times. 4-YO stitch to top of turning ch from row below (4th ch from the bottom).
Row 6: Ch 9 (counts as 1st 5-YO stitch), turn. Ch 25, [5-YO stitch into 4-YO stitch from row below, ch 25] 5 times. 5-YO stitch into top of turning ch from row below (7th ch from the bottom).
Finish with “strings” using the same method as for the whole spider web above.
We can’t wait to see what you make with this crochet spider web pattern. Remember to tag us on social media with your photos and videos so that we can re-post your beautiful work: @creativebug #creativebug
If you’d like to learn how to crochet or brush up on your crochet skills, check out Twinkie Chan’s beginner crochet class, Crochet Sampler: A Daily Practice.