You can crochet a cute and stylish granny square bag with just 13 granny squares! Making a bag is super approachable and much quicker to crochet than a sweater or blanket but still highlights the always-on-trend vibes of a crocheted square. I provide the pattern for the sunburst granny square that I used at the bottom of this post, but you can use the following bag instructions with any 13 same-sized squares for your own unique accessory.

If you prefer the “join as you go” method for joining, I suggest you take a look at the photos and instructions first so you can plan your joins. You can also use 13 complete granny squares as well as any seaming method you prefer, like whip stitch, flat slip stitch, or single crochet. There is a lot of flexibility with this style of bag and no “right” or “wrong” way. I do think it’s best that you block your squares before beginning.

Abbreviations in U.S. terms
Ch(s): chain(s)
Dc: double crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Rnd(s): round(s)
Sc: single crochet
Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together. [Insert hook into next st, YO, pull though 1 loop] 2 times, then YO and pull through all 3 loops on hook.]
Sc3tog: single crochet 3 together. [Insert hook into next st, YO, pull though 1 loop] 3 times, then YO and pull through all 4 loops on hook.]
Sl st: slip stitch
St(s): stitch(es)
Tr: treble crochet
YO: yarn over
( ): work everything inside the parentheses into the next st, e.g. (2 sc) = 2 single crochet in the next st
[ ]: work everything inside the brackets the number of times indicated
* *: work everything inside the stars the number of times indicated
1. Arrange Your Granny Squares
Lay out your granny squares, following the photo below, to get an idea of how they will all go together.

2. Make the Base Shape of the Bag
I stitch this wild shape together by first whip stitching together short rows and then whip stitching those rows to each other. The rows are a bit easier to see if you rotate the shape a little.

I have one row of two squares, two rows of three squares, 1 row of 4 squares, and then one single square. Remember, you can use any seaming/joining method you prefer. Make sure that the same side of all the squares is facing the same way. I usually whip stitch all my squares with the right side facing me.
3. Fold and Seam the Base Shape into a Three-Dimensional Bag
After stitching your rows together, make sure that the wrong sides of the squares are facing you. Follow the dotted line to fold the bottom of the shape over the top of the shape, matching the points. The points are the top of your bag. Now your shape is double-layered except for the two extra squares on the sides. Fold those inward to meet the edges of the other squares. Seam up the remaining un-seamed squares on the sides of the bag, following the red dotted lines. Remember to leave the top of the bag open and unseamed.

4. Lining the Bag with Fabric
This step is entirely optional. You can line the bag with a single layer of fabric using a similar technique that I used in my Granny Hexagon Stocking Class – though I might also add that a French seam for the base of the bag lining would be extra tidy. I also show how to double-line a granny square bag in this Instagram post. If you want to skip this step and keep crocheting, that is totally a fine option! The lining will help your bag keep its shape when you use it, but if you are eager to finish the bag and possibly deal with the lining later, you can also deal with it later.
5. Crochet a Set-Up Round for the Bag Handles
Like much of this bag, you can approach the handles in many ways. Some people crochet long tubes for each strap and then sew the ends of the tubes to the top points of the bag. You could also crochet in rows, make two long straps, and connect them to the bag, but crocheted rows are very stretchy when pulled on.
I like to crochet a few rounds around the top of the bag and create straps at the same time. I think this provides a little more strength and security to the straps, because these straps will be stretched sideways instead of vertically.
You can join your new yarn anywhere on the bag, but to make things simple the first time around, let’s join on the left side of the bag, a 6-7 stitches away from that side valley. You’ll first make a set-up round.

Rnd 1:
- Ch 1 and sc in the same st.
- Work sc evenly around. When working across a dc-cluster, work 1 sc in each dc. When working in a ch-1 space, work 1 sc.
- Whenever you reach a valley, you’ll need to decrease. I use 3 sts from the valley to work an sc3tog. You can also use 2 sts from the valley to work sc2tog. It’s up to you, how you crochet, and your aesthetic, but sc3tog works best for me. To work an sc3tog: [insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull through 1 loop] 3 times, then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
- Continue to sc evenly until you reach a peak, where you’ll need to work an increase. In that ch-3 space, work 3 sc.
- Continue to sc evenly around, working sc3tog in the valleys and 3 sc in the peaks.
- When you’ve reached your first sc, sl st to that sc to join. Don’t break off.
6. Crochet the Bag Handles – Exterior
Rnd 2:
- Ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc evenly until the 1st valley and work sc3tog. Sc evenly up to the 1st peak. When you’ve worked an sc into the 2nd sc of the 3-sc peak, ch 70 to start the first strap. You can make this longer or shorter, but I find 70 to be a good length for a shoulder bag.
- Making sure there are no twists in the chs, you’ll then sc into the top of the next peak to join the strap, skipping all the stitches and the valley in between. Your sc should be in that center/2nd sc of the 3-sc peak.

- Sc evenly again to the next valley, then sc3tog. Sc evenly to the next peak. When you’ve worked an sc into the 2nd sc of the 3-sc peak, ch 70 to make your 2nd strap. Skip over the next valley and sc into the top of the next peak as before. Sc evenly until you’ve reached the 1st sc of the rnd, then sl st to join.
Rnds 3-5:
- You’ll continue to work around the exterior of the straps. You’ll work on the interiors later. Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you can also stop at Rnd 4, which would be 2 rnds of strap width.
- Ch 1 and sc in same st. Sc evenly until the 1st valley, then sc3tog. Sc evenly until you reach the ch-70 and continue to sc evenly in each ch. Then sc evenly until the next valley and sc3tog. Sc evenly to the next peak. Sc evenly across the ch-70. Then sc evenly until you’ve reached the 1st sc of the rnd. Sl st to join. Break off yarn.

7. Crochet the Bag Handles – Interior
- Now you’ll work on the inside of each strap, one at a time. Join yarn at the top of the bag, 6-7 stitches before what I’ll call a strap corner.

Rnd 6: Ch 1 and sc in same st. Sc evenly until 1 stitch before the strap corner. Work sc3tog. Sc evenly along the inside of the strap until 1 stitch remains of the strap on the other side. Work sc3tog in that next strap corner. Sc evenly until the valley and sc3tog. Then sc evenly until you reach the beginning of the rnd. Sl st to join.
Rnds 7-8: Ch 1 and sc in same st and repeat Rnd 6. Then break off yarn.
- Repeat Rnds 6-8 for the other strap.
- Break off and weave in all your ends.
- Your bag is finished!
- Now you can try making another bag with a different style of square, like my Strawberry Granny Square. I like how both of these bags are assembled the same way, but one has soft cottage core vibes and the other has a more modern bohemian feel.

Sunburst Granny Square Crochet Pattern

- Instructions for 2-dc bobble: YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through 1 loop, YO and pull through 2 loops. YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through 1 loop, YO and pull through 2 loops. YO and pull through all 3loops on hook.
- Ch 3 and sl st to 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 11 dc into ring. Sl st to top of ch 3 to join. – 12 sts
- If you’re changing colors, break off current color and join the next color.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, ch 2. [2-dc bobble, ch 2] 11 times. Sl st to 1st dc to join. – 12 bobbles.
- If you’re continuing with the same color, sl st into the next ch-2 space. If you’re changing colors, break off current color and join the next color in any ch-2 space.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 1. [In the next ch-2 space, 3 dc, ch 1] 11 times. Sl st to top of ch 3 to join. – 12 3-dc clusters
- Break off yarn regardless of whether you’re going to use the same color or change colors. Join new yarn in any ch-1 space.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc into same space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1. *(3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, [3 dc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times* 3 times. (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join. – 8 dc-clusters and 8 tr-clusters
- Break off and weave in all ends.

